Hubble bubble, barter trouble

The entrepreneurial intensity of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is, in equal measures, arresting, elating and exhausting. Sucked into a labyrinthine underworld, an unstoppable undercurrent sweeps you along snaky, constricting alleyways lined with over 4,000 merchants competing for your eye.

Opening prices are absurd, and if you let your guard down for even a moment, you’ll be fleeced. The trick is never to show interest in any wares: even if you see something you know you can’t leave without, be indifferent and offer a fifth of the asking price. The next price the trader utters, whistle while raising your eyebrows and walk away. You can bet your bottom lira he’ll be right behind you, buckling.

And when you’re asked where you’re from and what you do – which you will be – opt for something like a teacher from Japan (ie underpaid and speaks one of the few languages they don’t) to minimise the cheat and the chat.

The ultimate wind-down from an afternoon’s heavy-duty haggling is a hookah or ‘hubbly-bubbly’. Turks have been smoking what they call ‘narghile’ since the 17^th century, and if you want an authentic rather than touristy experience, the place to go is Erenler Çay Bahçesi* just a few blocks from the Grand Bazaar. Set in a leafy courtyard, it’s packed with students from Istanbul University smoking their pipes and talking politics. Even for non-smokers, inhaling the apple-cured tobacco is a pleasurable thing to try once. And if you’re feeling fearless in general that day, go the distance and have a traditional Turkish coffee – about the equivalent of a quadruple espresso, you may be sleepless in Istanbul for some time.

* Address: Yeniçeriler Caddesi 36/28, Çemberlita?

The boneshaker train to nostalgic pizza

Hearing that the UK’s first Corsican Pizza joint* has just opened near Marble
Arch, has made me nostalgic for my favourite pizza place actually on the
island.

Every summer, at least three of the seven evenings on our Corsica Holiday are
spent at Le Chariot in Algajola, even though we’re based in Calvi – the
island’s most sophisticated citadel with restaurants in abundance. We board the
diminutive “Tramway de la Balagne” on the doorstep of our beach hotel, La
Caravelle, never tiring of the boneshaking but beautifully scenic 25 minute
journey to the small, unspoilt seaside village of Algajola.

Just back from the mile-long crescent of golden sand, Le Chariot dominates the
village’s tiny central square with its parasols shading drinkers and diners
(mostly locals) as the day’s scorch sinks and softens into sunset. My husband
orders his pint of Pietra, a Corsican amber beer made from malts, hops and
chestnuts; mine is the simple but sublime pleasure of rosé. We have sand under
our feet, local musicians playing, children dancing between tables, our day’s
discoveries to discuss, and the anticipation of our pizzas arriving.

Corsican pizza is distinctly different. The crust is thin but soft, thanks to
the addition of olive oil, and gruyere is often used as an alternative to
mozzarella. Charcuterie is piled on with abandon: chorizo, “habibi” (lamb &
beef sausage), figatellu (pork liver sausage), coppa (pig’s head sausage), all
spiced with green chilli & red pepper piccante – makes an “American Hot” bland
by comparison. If you?re not a meat-eater, the three-cheese option doesn’t
disappoint, and seasonal choices, such as artichoke, will always keep us coming
back.

*Sandy’s – 14 Seymour Place, London W1H 7NF. Tel: 0207 723 8833

Travel Tips for Villa holidays in Bali

Bali is a beautiful island, and one that can be driven around in just a day, so small is it in size. However, despite its small size, Bali has exotic beaches, luxury villas, excellent surf for the sports enthusiasts and many dance performances to entertain the tourists.

Explorers can also venture inland from their holiday villa to see some of the many volcanoes in Bali, but don’t worry as they’re highly unlikely to erupt!

Here are a few tips to make the most of your time in Bali:

• If you like to get out and party, you’ll find Bali has some excellent nightclubs in Kuta, and plenty of local shops to tempt you with souvenirs to take back home with you. One important tip while in Bali is to only drink alcohol from branded bottles bought from authorised retailers.

• When travelling around, most taxis are unmetered so it is wise to negotiate the price before you get in. Why not try travel by ‘bemo’, a mini-van that acts as a sort of communal bus and you just hail the driver and negotiate the fare.

• If you wish to visit a temple, be sure to wear a waist sash. For clothing, light, airy clothes in cotton or linen are ideal for the climate in Bali.

• Bali is perfect for those who like to relax, as you can spend your time in a spa, rejuvenating your body and soul, and you can even enjoy a massage on the beach. Of course simply sitting in one of the villas in Bali and enjoying the cuisine can be an ideal way to spend an evening.