Zest4Travel blog: Morocco and Asia travel tips

Hubble bubble, barter trouble

The entrepreneurial intensity of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is, in equal measures, arresting, elating and exhausting. Sucked into a labyrinthine underworld, an unstoppable undercurrent sweeps you along snaky, constricting alleyways lined with over 4,000 merchants competing for your eye.

Opening prices are absurd, and if you let your guard down for even a moment, you’ll be fleeced. The trick is never to show interest in any wares: even if you see something you know you can’t leave without, be indifferent and offer a fifth of the asking price. The next price the trader utters, whistle while raising your eyebrows and walk away. You can bet your bottom lira he’ll be right behind you, buckling.

And when you’re asked where you’re from and what you do – which you will be – opt for something like a teacher from Japan (ie underpaid and speaks one of the few languages they don’t) to minimise the cheat and the chat.

The ultimate wind-down from an afternoon’s heavy-duty haggling is a hookah or ‘hubbly-bubbly’. Turks have been smoking what they call ‘narghile’ since the 17^th century, and if you want an authentic rather than touristy experience, the place to go is Erenler Çay Bahçesi* just a few blocks from the Grand Bazaar. Set in a leafy courtyard, it’s packed with students from Istanbul University smoking their pipes and talking politics. Even for non-smokers, inhaling the apple-cured tobacco is a pleasurable thing to try once. And if you’re feeling fearless in general that day, go the distance and have a traditional Turkish coffee – about the equivalent of a quadruple espresso, you may be sleepless in Istanbul for some time.

* Address: Yeniçeriler Caddesi 36/28, Çemberlita?

Finding a family balance in Kefalonia

Refusing to accept that a small child might not be looking for the same in a summer holiday – rural idyll, utterly remote, uplifting view, tavernas frequented only by elderly locals – my husband booked us an (admittedly beautiful) utterly inappropriate villa in Kefalonia. Having a beach to oneself is one thing as a couple, but quite another to a single toddler desperately seeking friends to share a bucket and spade with.

Fiscardo, Kefalonia

It wasn’t going well when, almost a week in, we were intrigued driving past a boutiquey hotel on the outskirts of Fiskardo*, and risked popping in for an early-evening drink with our morose minor. A design property, all minimalism and a mostly coupled clientele, we were amazed to see in its literature it described itself as a family hotel. Well, the remainder of our holiday was spent by the hotel’s two enormous infinity pools – one very shallow which meant hours of water-winged wading – overlooking an expanse of sea, and Ifferker (as it became known). We stretched out on smart sun-beds, lunched by the pool on tasty club sandwiches and fresh melon, and although the pleasure cost us around 45 euros a time (for lunch and poolside drinks), we were just thankful that, by chance, we’d achieved a family-friendly holiday without having to venture into kids’ club territory.

* Emelisse Grace Hotel

The boneshaker train to nostalgic pizza

Hearing that the UK’s first Corsican Pizza joint* has just opened near Marble
Arch, has made me nostalgic for my favourite pizza place actually on the
island.

Every summer, at least three of the seven evenings on our Corsica Holiday are
spent at Le Chariot in Algajola, even though we’re based in Calvi – the
island’s most sophisticated citadel with restaurants in abundance. We board the
diminutive “Tramway de la Balagne” on the doorstep of our beach hotel, La
Caravelle, never tiring of the boneshaking but beautifully scenic 25 minute
journey to the small, unspoilt seaside village of Algajola.

Just back from the mile-long crescent of golden sand, Le Chariot dominates the
village’s tiny central square with its parasols shading drinkers and diners
(mostly locals) as the day’s scorch sinks and softens into sunset. My husband
orders his pint of Pietra, a Corsican amber beer made from malts, hops and
chestnuts; mine is the simple but sublime pleasure of rosé. We have sand under
our feet, local musicians playing, children dancing between tables, our day’s
discoveries to discuss, and the anticipation of our pizzas arriving.

Corsican pizza is distinctly different. The crust is thin but soft, thanks to
the addition of olive oil, and gruyere is often used as an alternative to
mozzarella. Charcuterie is piled on with abandon: chorizo, “habibi” (lamb &
beef sausage), figatellu (pork liver sausage), coppa (pig’s head sausage), all
spiced with green chilli & red pepper piccante – makes an “American Hot” bland
by comparison. If you?re not a meat-eater, the three-cheese option doesn’t
disappoint, and seasonal choices, such as artichoke, will always keep us coming
back.

*Sandy’s – 14 Seymour Place, London W1H 7NF. Tel: 0207 723 8833

Marrakech cuisine and restaurants

On a recent visit to my favourite city Marrakech, as ever my gastric apprehension was as overwhelming as my excitement. To feel such affection for a place yet be horrified by its cuisine is a tough one, a bit like Greece in the 80s when we couldn’t resist its beaches but by God had we all had enough of its moussaka and stuffed vine leaves.

For all of Marrakech’s magic and mystique, its madcap medina with doorways down alleys leading into other worlds; its main square amok with monkeys and musicians, sorcerers and their child apprentices; its palm-strewn outskirts sprinkled with sheep and mud-fashioned stately homes, years of experience had made me dread the unbearable bloatedness and weight gain that went hand in hand with any visit.

But things have changed I was told by my ex-pat friend as I unpacked the packets of Rennies and gallon of Gaviscon from my washbag. Marrakech isn’t all about arterial obstruction and couscous-fuelled coronaries anymore. I’m going to show you.

And indeed she did. So for anyone visiting the city eager to avoid tagine tedium and over-eating, here are my insider tips for dining experiences that are fresh, authentic and alternative:

Dar Moha takes the heavy out of Moroccan and turns it haute. Swiss-trained head chef Moha has cleverly adapted traditional dishes into digestible delights including tiny melt-in-the-mouth pastilla (sweet pigeon pie) filled with a vegetable purée, and strawberries wrapped in wafer-thin pastry and rolled in ground almonds. Best enjoyed at one of the tables beside the small sparkling pool. £40*

Dar Moha Restaurant, Marrakech

Tatchibana offers miso in the Maghreb: authentic Japanese in the heart of Marrakech. Sushi, sashimi, maki and teriyaki are painstakingly prepared by chef Yuki Yamauchi and served by his wife in traditional costume. Not to mention more unusual offerings, such as duck slivers in green-tea ravioli. £20*

Catanzaro is unfussy but fabulous, Alpine-style Italian, with tiramisu to die for. Permanently packed to the rafters, it has been run by the same curiously calm, exceptionally efficient couple for decades. There are generous steaks with serious sauces, excellent wood-fired pizzas and magnificent mash dishes on request for those Britons hankering for home comforts. £20*

The Djemaa el Fna isn’t a restaurant, but a gourmet experience: a de rigeur degustation in Marrakech’s central square is snails on skewers with sausages and salad. Visitors balance on benches, banter with stall-keepers and mop up paper plates with hunks of bread. £5-£10*

Narwama is Marrakech’s only Thai restaurant. Located within a UNESCO World Heritage riad, it offers a heady mix of hookahs and heritage amid ochre walls. Indulge in a green curry in coconut milk with chicken and sweet basil, then focus on the fountain of flames and water between deep drags of apple shisha. £25*

*All prices are approximate and per head, and do not include drinks.

Cuba Diving Holidays – Top Five Sites

Diving in Cuba is one of the biggest draws to the island, and hundreds of scuba
enthusiasts travel with us every year to see the best coral reefs and the most
exotic fish! It’s no wonder, with an average annual temperature of 24 degrees
and an average visibility of 98 feet, Cuba is amongst the best diving hotspots
in the world. Additionally, the lack of strong currents and variety available
makes the island the perfect training environment for Cuban diver virgins. But
where’s the best place to dive on the island? Here’s our top 5 Cuban diving
sites…

The beach at Maria la Gorda, a dive enthusiast's paradise

Cayo Largo

In the south of the island, Cayo Largo is the obvious choice for diving in
Cuba. With virtually untouched beaches and coral reefs, this is a great place
to feel isolated from the world at large. It’s also a great place for beginners, thanks to the huge nearby coral reef, there are no strong currents.
If all of this sounds perfect, except for the location, you’ll be pleased to
hear that although this is 177km from Havana, there are local domestic flights
between the two, meaning you can be there within an hour!

Maria la Gorda

To the west of the island, Maria la Gorda is a stunning dive spot right in the
heart of nature – it’s one of the least developed areas of the island. Within
the Guanahacabibes Peninsula is the dive site itself – a world biosphere
reserve with two dive zones. When you get beneath the surface, you can see
black coral walls, 18th century shipwrecks and plenty of flora and fauna. For
more experienced divers, there are caves and caverns to explore and night trips
for the thrill seekers. At four hours from Havana, serious Cuban divers need
only apply – but the trip is most definitely worth it!

Cayo Levisa

If you want something a little closer to Havana, Cayo Levisa is a great choice.
An hour outside the capital on the north west of the island, this Cuban dive
site is home to sponges, black coral and some of the larger tropical fish.
Alongside these are some of the more memorable shipwrecks of the 17th and 18th
century. If diving is the whole purpose of your trip, then you may want to stay
at the Hotel Cayo Levisa which allows Cuba’s divers to stay in its 40 rooms for
the duration of their visit.

Playa Giron

Playa Giron can be found near the Bay of Pigs, and is renowned for its shelf
diving, as well as the trips to local caves in the region. The area has sheer
drop offs near the shore which make for some great swim-throughs. Over four
hours away from Havana, this is one for the determined, but its well worth the
trip – indeed, dedicated divers may wish to stay at the Hotel Playa Giron.
Cuban divers love this one – in 1994 a new ship was deliberately sunk to give
the diving population more to see!

Faro Luna

If you want to take underwater photography, you simply cannot beat Faro Luna.
Why? It has some of the cleanest water in Cuba, and a good variety of sea life
and environments with a variety of ship wrecks and stunning coral reefs in its
28 dive sites. The coral formation barriers are so high that you can actually
see them on the surface. This really is our pick of Cuba’s dive locations!

Cuba Eco Holidays

If you are one of the growing number of ecologically and socially conscious
travelers, or you just love nature, then a Cuba eco holiday is a great choice
for you. This spectacular island paradise is filled with natural wonders of
animal and plant life.

The Viñales valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is encircled by mountains with impressive rocky outcrops

Los Jasmines Hotel

Conservation-conscious tours in unspoiled landscapes are available at a number
of hotels in Cuba. Eco trips can be booked at the Los Jasmines Hotel In the
Vinales Valley. This hotel offers a wide range of touring options, including
trails ideal for ecotourism.

La Moka Hotel

At the eco-friendly hotel La Moka in Pinar Del Rio a tree grows up through the
lobby and its branches disappear through holes in the roof. This hotel was
virtually made for Cuba eco holidays – some of its electricity comes from solar
panels and much of the food served is grown in hydroponic, organic gardens.

La Moka is a starting point for numerous nature trails and a wonderful location
for those interested in conservation and wildlife. One of their Cuba eco trips
takes visitors to the Las Terrazas Tourist Complex, 5000 hectares of mainly
untouched land in Pinar del Rio.

At Las Terrazas you can get a feel for Cuba’s natural wonders; tropical
forests, mountains, valleys and waterfalls. You will also spot some fantastic
flora and fauna on this eco trip. Cuba’s national flower, the butterfly lily,can be found on this trail. You can also find Bleteas, purpreas, curujeyes,
mastic trees and royal palm trees. The fauna includes water lizards, tiny frogs
and a number of native songbirds.

Cayo Levisa Resort

Another option is the low-key island resort of Cayo Levisa, with simple
accommodation in beachside cabanas, which have a very low impact on the
environment – also ideal for a Cuba eco trip.

Fascinating Cuban architecture

Cuban Architecture, like Cuba’s history is rich and diverse, with strong
contrasts mirroring the country’s social and political past. During your Cuba
holidays, you will see evidence of days gone by in the form of graceful old
colonial buildings, while a sign of the times is reflected by imposing stark
modern skyscrapers.

Traditional Havana Street

When major cities, such as Havana, Santiago De Cuba, Matanzas, and Trinidad
were built, early in Cuba’s history, they followed the Ordinance of the Spanish
King, Philip II set out in 1573. These regulations required a cathedral, the
administrative office buildings, and a governor’s palace to occupy the four
sides of a city’s central plaza. Cities were laid out in a grid that expanded
as the urban population grew. Builders and craftsmen achieved impressive
results with the building materials available in Cuba by simplifying Spanish
designs. To enable them to deal with the heat, they created the maximum amount
of shade and ventilation provided the distinctive aspect of colonial Cuban
architecture and design. Typical features of a colonial Cuban home includes a
central courtyard, an arcaded gallery, decorative wooden ceilings and high
doors, with their own cooling device: a ‘postigo’ or panel which can open to
provide light and a breeze without the whole door having to be opened. Homes,
churches, and some public buildings added the stained glass windows of Arabic
origin that gave Cuban architecture its specific character.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the cities grew, giving rise to the fortress of
El Morro de Santiago de Cuba (1633), the Cathedral of Havana (1787-1811), Santa
Clara and San Agustin convents in Havana (17th century), Santa Maria Rosario
church (1779), and The Plaza de Armas of Havana (1772). Cuban architecture in
the 19th century followed the early colonial period. Things changed in the mid
20th century when architects took on new international styles, particularly
those of the Spanish architect, Antoni Gaudi, whose works blended neo-gothic,
art nouveau, and surrealist influences. Examples of this worth seeing on your
Cuba holidays can be found in Havana’s Miramar district, where buildings
exhibit these traits while retaining an open air, tropical ambiance.

More recently in Cuba’s history, post revolution, Cuban architecture followed a
single, utilitarian path, with new buildings constructed to be practical and
economical. Most architectural structures built after 1959 were apartment in
suburban areas and the countryside, intended to house the poor and
professionals who did not have homes. The architecture resembled that of the
prescribed Soviet styles. These rectangular apartment buildings were built with
concrete blocks, and pressed marble was used for the floors. These Soviet
models makes a distinctive landmark among the more tropical and colonial
examples of Cuban architecture that were built before 1959.

Five Coastal Paradises: The Best Beaches in Cuba

Selecting the five best beaches in Cuba is a tough task when you consider that
the island is made up of majestic coastlines stretching to 5,746 kilometres,
and dividing up into 289 natural beaches. Cuba’s northern beaches are
characterised by golden powdery sands and the turquoise waves of the Atlantic
Ocean. Cuba’s beaches in the south are less popular with tourists making them
perfect for periods of tranquil isolation.

The beautiful turquoise sea at Varadero

As beach holidays in Cuba become more and more popular, we have picked out some
of the best kept tourist secrets from the island’s coast line. Here are our top
5 beaches in Cuba, unspoilt by tourism and overcrowding.

1. Cayo Santa Maria’s beach

On the north east coast, this small island, with its 7 miles of virtually
untouched beaches has been designated a UNESCO reserve, making it a stunning
location for a holiday. The island is home to some memorable wildlife, and
visitors should not be surprised to spot flamingos, endemic lizards, mollusks
and the island’s national bird – the Tocoroco bearing all the colours of the
Cuban flag. Plant lovers will also be delighted to find the island is home to
248 species of flora.

Cayo Santa Maria’s beach itself is one of the most tranquil in Cuba and
stretches for 13 kilometres of very fine white sands, with calm crystal clear
waters. The coral barrier protects the beach from winds, meaning waves are
never overwhelming and allows a selection of marine life to make this Cuban
beach paradise its home.

2. Varadero Beach

Varadero beach stretches to 20 kilometres of sands ensuring it is the most
popular Cuba beach holiday resort by quite a long way. 28 diving spots, shallow
clear waters and a huge variety of flora and fauna are just some of the reasons
Varadero beach is world renowned for its excellence.

Varadero beach’s water is shallow for several metres out, making it a safe
choice for children, and the waters are so clear that it is possible to see the
seabed for long stretches! For divers, a Cuba beach holiday in Varadero is a
real treat, with the area boasting a huge variety of fish, lobsters, crabs and
shrimps with over 40 species of coral and 70 kinds of molluscs. Those just
enjoying the sand and sunshine will also delight in the dolphins – which are
often visible from the shore!

3. Cayo Coco

Off the north coast of Cuba, and nestled in one of the most stunning coral
reefs in the world lies the island of Cayo Coco. The island is made up with
27km of some of the best beaches in Cuba, and is something of a scuba diving
haven. To the north, 9km of snowy white beaches, gently lapped by the Atlantic
Ocean, to the south tropical mangroves, and wildlife havens.

The coral reef around the island is touted as the second most important in the
world by experts (after Australia’s) and this is reflected by the vast array of
aquatic life that divers can see as they explore. The warm waters have
excellent visibility, and allow divers to clearly see the range of
tranchinatus, red snappers, tarpons, stonebasses, sharks and barracudas, as
they swim around the clean sea.

The Cuban beaches on the island host a wide array of fauna for nature lovers,
including pink flamingos (the island hosts a massive flock of over 30,000!),
grey herons, pelicans, mocking birds and ducks.

4. Guardalavaca Beach

Facing the Atlantic ocean, the golden sands and turquoise oceans of
Guardalavaca’s beach. At 3 kilometres long it’s one of the smallest beaches in
Cuba to make our list, but it’s still worth a visit. It’s protected by coral
reefs 300 metres out, making it a fascinating microclimate for sealife.

As with other Cuba beach holiday hotspots, Guardalavaca is a great area to dive
in. The water is clear, with visibility of 20 metres, and for those that want
something a little out of the ordinary; the underwater caves at Gibara allow
some intriguing exploration for the experienced diver. Even the regular
stretches of water are home to various coral beds, crustaceans and tropical
fish, including swordfish, Spanish mackerel and barracuda, making a trip to
Guardalavaca beach a nature lover’s dream.

5. Cayo Largo Beach

On the east side of the Island, Cayo Largo beach is a popular dive site and
boasts some of Cuba’s most beautiful coral reefs as well as gorgeous beaches of
white, unspoilt sands. Only accessible via a small airport or a six hour boat
trip from Havana, this may seem like a lot of effort for a simple beach holiday

in Cuba, but with only a handful of hotels, this is almost entirely unspoilt by
tourism.

The biggest selling point for Cayo Largo’s beach ahead of the island’s others
is that it really feels removed from the pressures of city life – there are
hardly any big restaurants, no bustling shopping centres and very little
commercialism. The result is an island so tranquil and calm that to do anything
other than relax and sunbathe would seem criminal! Although the island is
perfect for couples, families and singles alike, visitors should be forewarned
that there is often an overlap between the nudist and non-nudist sections of
the island!

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Spa Holidays in Asia

Asia is known for its beautiful scenery, leisurely way of life and its mystical healing remedies. This is why spa holidays in Asia are extremely popular, with countries such as Thailand, Bali and Malaysia all offering relaxing spa holidays for you to unwind, recuperate and lose yourself in the beauty of the landscape.

All of the spa hotels offer ancient Asian healing techniques with their spa holidays, meaning that you can lose your stresses and pains as centuries old healing remedies cure your mind, body and soul.

You can try such spa techniques as the Malay hot stone massage, which is practiced at the Tanjung Rhu Resort, or if that sounds too exotic you could opt for the soothing water shiatsu, which you’ll find at the Mactan Resort in Shangri-La.

Once you’re suitably rejuvenated from the spa holidays in Asia you can set about exploring the spectacular sights of the area, but don’t forget to visit the stunning country that is Vietnam while you’re there.

Holidays in Vietnam are becoming more popular now than ever as the country has barely been touched for decades, but is now becoming a major tourist destination. Vietnam is one of the last unspoilt countries in Asia, so be sure to see it now as it’s changing rapidly.

Once you’ve visited Asia and experienced the different pace of life you’ll be ready to return to your own life, but you might not want to.